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Drain Cleaning

One slow drain is a clog. Every slow drain is a main line.

We clear the blockage, then show you on camera why it happened - so the same drain is not backing up again next season.

4.9 on Google (200+)Licensed OH #2368324/7 emergency service
Gloved hand removing a blocked sink trap
Clearing a blocked sink trap

The first question we ask on a drain call is which drains are slow. One fixture backing up is a local problem - hair and soap in a lavatory trap, grease in a kitchen arm, lint in a laundry standpipe. But if the basement floor drain gurgles when the washer empties, or the toilet bubbles when the tub drains, the blockage is downstream of everything and you have a main line problem. Those two calls look identical from the kitchen and are nothing alike underground.

Where you live shapes what we find. The mature streets in Delaware, Old Worthington and the older parts of Powell sit over clay or early cast-iron laterals with joints every few feet, and sixty years of silver maple and sweetgum roots have found every one of them. The 1990s and 2000s subdivisions in Lewis Center and Liberty Township have newer PVC laterals with tight joints, so their main-line backups are almost never collapsed pipe - they are grease, wipes, and a shallow-pitch run that never quite self-scours. Knowing which of those you have changes the tool we bring, and sometimes it changes whether we should be cutting at all.

So we clear the line first, then look at it. Camera footage tells you whether you paid for a repair or a reprieve, and it is the difference between a plumber saying your line is bad and a plumber showing you the offset joint at 42 feet. We will also tell you when a camera is not worth it - if your kitchen arm clogs every eighteen months from grease and the fix is a jetting and a habit change, spending three hundred dollars to watch it on a screen is not doing you a favor.

What we do

Drain Cleaning work we take on

Hand feeding a drain cable into a bathroom sink drain

Drain snaking and cabling

The right first tool for most single-fixture clogs and for a lot of main lines. A cable punches through the obstruction and restores flow, which is exactly what you want at 9pm with a sink full of water. What it does not do is clean the pipe wall - grease and scale stay put, which is why a cabled kitchen line often clogs again on roughly the same schedule.

  • Sinks, tubs, showers, toilets, laundry and floor drains
  • Main line cabling through an accessible cleanout
  • Typical market range $150-$300 for a standard drain call
Valve and metal fittings on a residential main line

Hydro jetting

High-pressure water - commonly up to about 4,000 PSI on residential work - scours the pipe wall back to bare material instead of poking a hole through the middle. It is the right tool for grease-packed kitchen lines, heavy scale, and fine root hair. It is the wrong tool for a fragile line, and we will say so: badly deteriorated cast iron or a clay lateral with cracked bells can be made worse by jetting, and camera-first is the honest sequence there.

  • Cleans the pipe wall, not just the blockage
  • Camera-first on old clay and deteriorated cast iron
  • Typical market range $350-$600
Drain and vent piping running through a residential basement ceiling

Camera inspection, roots and sewer line repair

A camera run down the lateral shows you what we are describing: root mass at a joint, a belly holding standing water, an offset where the line has dropped, or a clean pipe that simply needed cleaning. We locate depth and position from the surface, so if a repair is needed nobody is digging exploratory holes in your yard. Then we lay out the options honestly - cut and maintain, spot repair, or replace the run.

  • You watch the screen with us, and get the footage
  • Depth and position located before anything is dug
  • Typical market range $200-$300 for an inspection
Kitchen island sink and gas range

Kitchen, bath and laundry lines

Three fixtures, three different clogs. Kitchen arms fill with cooled grease and coffee grounds; bath and shower lines pack with hair bound up in soap scum; laundry standpipes silt up with lint and detergent residue, and in hard-water houses the residue sets harder than you would expect. We clear the line the way that fixture needs and tell you what is realistically going to keep it open.

  • Grease, hair, soap scum, lint and scale
  • Trap arms re-pitched where the slope is the real problem
  • Straight advice on enzyme maintenance versus chemicals

Common problems

What usually goes wrong

Symptoms homeowners call us about, what tends to be behind them, and how we approach the fix.

Every drain in the house is slow

Usually caused by

  • Blockage in the main lateral, downstream of all fixtures
  • Root intrusion at a clay or cast-iron joint
  • An offset or collapsed section of the lateral
  • A blocked or improperly vented stack

This is the urgent one, because the next thing to back up is usually the lowest fixture in the house - a basement floor drain or a shower pan. We clear from the main cleanout, confirm flow, then camera the line to find out whether you have a maintenance item or a structural problem. You see the footage either way.

The same drain clogs every few months

Usually caused by

  • Grease and scale still lining the pipe after cabling
  • A belly in the line holding water and solids
  • Root hair regrowing at a joint after each cutting
  • Trap arm pitched too flat to self-scour

Repeat clogs are a pipe-condition question, not a clog question. Jetting removes what cabling leaves behind, and a camera tells you whether you are fighting slope, roots or a section that has failed. We would rather solve it once than sell you the same visit twice a year.

Sewage is backing up into the basement

Usually caused by

  • Fully blocked lateral between the house and the city main
  • Collapsed clay section under a mature tree
  • City main surcharged during heavy rain
  • Failed or missing backwater valve on a low fixture

Stop using water anywhere in the house - every flush and every load of laundry adds to what is coming up - and call. This is an around-the-clock call for us. We clear the lateral, confirm flow, and camera it once the line is open so you know whether the cause was a blockage or a broken pipe.

Drains smell even when they are draining fine

Usually caused by

  • Dry P-trap in a guest bath or floor drain
  • Biofilm built up on the walls of a kitchen or lavatory arm
  • Failed wax ring letting sewer gas past the toilet flange
  • Vent blockage pulling the traps dry

Odor without a backup is usually a trap or a vent, not a clog, and pouring drain cleaner at it accomplishes nothing. We find which trap is dry or which vent is blocked, clean the line if biofilm is the source, and reseal the flange if the smell is following a toilet.

How it works

What happens after you call

Four steps, no surprises. The price is agreed before anything is opened.

Which drains, and since when

One fixture or all of them, when it started, and what has already been tried. That is enough to know whether we are bringing a cable to a lavatory trap or opening the main cleanout.

Clear it

We open the correct access point, clear the line, and run water long enough to be confident the flow is real rather than a temporary channel through the blockage.

Look at what caused it

Where it is warranted, the camera goes down and you watch it with us. Roots, bellies, offsets and grease all look different on screen, and each one leads to a different recommendation.

Tell you the truth about the pipe

Maintenance, jetting, spot repair or replacement - with the reasoning and the price for each. If the honest answer is that your line is fine and you should stop putting bacon grease down it, that is what you will hear.

Reviews

What neighbors say

Five-star reviews from Powell and the surrounding suburbs, unedited.

Keith has done several jobs for us on multiple occasions. He has been available in the evenings as well as on Saturday mornings when it was an emergency. On one occasion, after finishing the job at our house, he willingly walked over to my neighbor's house to help her with her toilet that had broken and was able to fix it right on the spot. He is beyond generous and always informative about the problem at hand. He will tell you what you SHOULD spend our money on and what isn't necessary. I love this about him! I continue to recommend him to everyone I know.

Michelle SmithPowell, OHGoogle review
I highly recommend Koehler Plumbing, Keith is amazing and more importantly honest and ethical. Had a garbage disposal that went out. I just knew I'd have to replace it, Keith fi...
Dee MillerDublin, OH
Highly recommend Koehler Plumbing for any plumbing work! I have used them to replace a hot water heater, sink faucet, sump pump with back up and replaced a hot water shut off va...
Ivy RileyLewis Center, OH
Koehler Plumbing is the best service around. When you call they are very responsive and will set a date for repair asap. And will also have the best price. Call now for all your...
Van RomeDelaware, OH

Read all 200+ reviews on Google

Questions

Drain Cleaning questions we get asked

Still stuck? Call us at (614) 204-5532, or send us the details.

Related work

Other things we handle

Main water shutoff valve on a residential supply line

Emergency Plumbing

Burst pipes, sewer backups, failed water heaters and leaks you cannot shut off - answered around the clock, every day of the year.

Learn moreabout Emergency Plumbing

Service area

Where we work

Powell is home base. These are the communities we cover day to day, in rough order of how often we are there.

62-174 Grace Dr
Powell, OH 43065
(614) 204-5532

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  • Free, no-obligation estimates on non-emergency work
  • Upfront pricing before anything is opened or ordered
  • Licensed OH #23683, insured, and veteran-owned since 1996

Emergency? Call (614) 204-5532 - a person answers, day or night.

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24/7 emergency · Powell & surrounding